Author here. Unfortunately after removing the wall switch, I found a newly installed mini-fridge would cause signal dropouts sometimes when the motor started or stopped. Moving it into an adjacent room reduced the frequency of dropouts, but I still got them periodically (and can no longer hear the mini-fridge to tell if dropouts are correlated). A few weeks ago I unplugged the mini-fridge because I barely used it and it had filled with ice. Since then I have not gotten any dropouts (aside from static shocks in my room), but haven't played my Wii long enough to know with confidence it won't happen again.

I know a lot of the words here, but most of it sounds like gibberish. I wish I had the expertise and domain knowledge to be able to do something like this. It was a fantastic read and I'm awed by the author's dedication and level of knowledge.

Unfortunately, as an enterprise software developer, my hardware proficiency stops at being able to assemble PCs and diagnose simple hardware issues (is this power supply broken?) at a very abstract level. I've encountered issues like this before and lacked the expertise to properly diagnose it on a low enough level, which can be frustrating.

The level of debugging involved, all the way to the wallswitch in this was frankly impressive. I doubt most people would have dived that deep into an analog issue.

it's likely not the dimmer's fault; phase angle triac dimmers were designed when resistive loads (incandescent light bulbs) were king. except for the super-low-wattage-per-lumen type, most LED light bulbs I run across these days are based capacitive dropper power supplies, which are inductive by nature (hence their atrocious power factor). combining that kind of load with phase-angle dimming is a recipe for crazy harmonics many orders of magnitude higher than the 60Hz base frequency.